Textile fabric and method of making the same



. June 28, 1938.

H. H. FONDA TEXTILE FABRIC AND METHOD OF MAKING'THE SAME Filed Aug. 31,1937 Nk gz Wi /Zr designs formed in relief on the face of the fabric.degree of beauty, as formerly obtained by the old Patented June 28, 1938UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE Harold Fonda, Skaneateles, N. Y., assignorto Nye-Wait Company, Inc., Auburn, N. Y., a corporation of New YorkApplication August 31, 1937, Serial No. 161,866

14 Claims. (Cl. 139 391) This invention appertains to a new and imtoproduce embossed or relief designs in pile proved textile pile fabricand method of making fabrics in a more practical and economical way thesame, and more especially, to the manufacthan has been heretoforepossible, and enabling vture of carpets or rugs having artisticfigurative the practical attainment of the same-or a greater In a broadsense, the design may be said to be mechanical hand-shearing methodgenerally atan embossed design which is attained by intertributed to theChinese artisans previously menweaving differentially twisted-yarns in apredetioned. termined pattern and subsequently treating the My inventionattains the desired ends just yarns to release the twist of the hardertwisted referred to with a. greater uniformity of surface 10 yarns,thereby causing certain of the pile tufts to appearance of the fabric inthe high and low pile rise above the others, or elongate and form adisareas, and affords a higher degree of density of tinctive contrastagainst the field or background the pile and greater coverage, thuscontributing which is constituted by the other pile tufts. This to amuch longer and better. wearing quality of 5 contrast is readilydiscernible irrespective of any both the low and high pile areas than inthe 15 difference in material composition of the yarns case of the oldpractices previously referred to. which form the pile tufts, or acontrast resulting Other objects and advantages of the invention from,the employment of yarns of different colors. will be hereinafterdescribed, and the novel fea- Of course, if desired, yarns of differentcompositures thereof defined by the appended claims.

, tion and/or colors may be employed to emphasize In the drawing: 20

the embossed effect, but it is to be understood Figure 1 is afragmentary top plan view of a that this is not essential to theinvention. pile fabric embodying my invention, and illus- I am awarethat mechanical shearing of the trating the distinctive embossed effectin atypical pile tufts to form figurative designs has been figurativedesign, which has been shown merely practiced for many years, and theorigin of sich as one example of the many artistic designs which 25practice is generally attributed to the Chinese may be produced in thepractice of my method; artisans of old. However, this old mechanicalFigure 2 is an enlarged fragmentary vertical shearing method involvednothing more than the sectional view, taken through the fabric ofFigcutting of grooves or channels in the pile face of .ure 1 toillustrate the-manner in which the pile thefabric in the form offigurative Outl tufts are bound in the fabric, and showing. the .30 atthe p areas Outlined bounded y these relationship of the long and shortpile tufts which r ov s r ch n s are merely separated fr m form the highand low pile areas on the surface the other areas, and does not embracethe use of of th fabric; pile tufts of different heights within therespec- Figure 3 is a horizontal sectional view, taken tive areas, as inthe present invention. approximately on the line 3-3 of Figure 2; and 35Another old practice of forming figurative de- Figure 4 is an enlargedfragmentary detail view signs in pile fabrics is to employ yarns ofdiffer in vertical section, illustrating the method of ent materialcomposition such as a combination weaving the pile yarns in the fabric,the view -of yarns of animal and vegetable fibers which are representingone stage of the weaving operation 0 treated after weaving of the samein such ma'nprior to withdrawal of the pile wires and cutting 40 nerthat one set of yarns is destroyed or disinof the pile loops.

' tegrated, leaving the other yarns to form the pat- Like referencecharacters designate corretern. This practice has never gone intoextensive sponding parts in the several figures of the drawuse, and isgenerally considered to be impractical. ing. The invention is especiallyapplicable to a I am also aware that the employment of dilfer- Wiltonweave as obtained with a Jacquard 45 entially twisted yarns in pilefabrics, and the subequipped loom, or an Axminster weave, ora Chesequenttreatment of said yarns so as to cause nille weave, in each of whichthere isrelatively certain of the pile tufts to sink down or matbelittle limitation in design and pattern. It is also low other piletufts formed of other yarns having applicable to other types of loomswhere more a different twist, have been proposed to create thanone yarncan be handled simultaneously, as 50 frieze, pebbled or crepe effects,but this practice in the case of a plain tap loom for producing twoislikewise materially different from the method tone effects. Theresulting embossed effect which of producing my embossed pile fabric, aswill I am able to obtain must, of course, fall ,within hereinafterbecome more apparent. the limitations of the pattern controlofthe loom iOne of the primary objects of my invention is or its mechanicalarrangement for handling the, 56

yarn. In the case of a Wilton weave, any portion of the rug can be madeembossed, depending upon how the pattern is out. If yarns of the weavingoperations in practicing my invention are carried out in the customarymanner of forming designs and patterns in pile fabrics having an evensurface, whereas the embossed effect is not produced in the actualweaving operation, but rather as a result of the subsequent treatment ofthe yarn.

In the drawing, I have shown my invention embodied in a typical Wiltonweave, wherein l designates the usual fine chain or binder warp, 2 theburied yarn and stuifer, and 3 the filling threads, which, together withthe fine chain I, bind the pile surface yarns, generally designated 4,to the backing fabric. The pile yarns 4 are woven in the usual mannerover pile wires 5, as best seen in Figure 4, to form pile loops ofsubstantially uniform height, and when the pile wires are withdrawn, thepile loops are cut and cause the pile yarns to assume the form of tuftswhich are uniformly distributed over the face of the fabric. Thus, thereis nothing novel in the weaving of the fabric itself.

To attain the embossed effects which characterize my invention, I employdifferentially twisted pile yarns. As one specific example of thepile'yarns employed in the fabric illustrated in the drawing, I take asingle wool yarn having a twist of about forty-seven turns in teninches, and make up a three-ply yarn having a twist of aboutseventy-four turns in ten inches, the ply twist being in the oppositedirection to the single twist. This three-ply yarn is employed for oneof the sets of pile yarns which are embodied in the fabric. This yarn ispreferably treated before weaving the same into the fabric, in a waterbath having a temperature of approximately 120 degrees F.for abouttwenty minutes, 7

- to temporarily set the ply twist. Where colored set the ply twist.

yarns are employed, the yarn is preferably dyed in single before plyingso as not to permanently The bath to which the plied yarn is subjectedafter plying, as previously mentioned, should be maintained at atemperature below that which would strip the yarn color, in the case ofdyed yarns, and it is for this reason that I have selected a bathtemperature of about 120 degrees F.

In contrast to the three-ply yarn above referred to, a second set ofpile yarns is employed, which are preferably of two-ply construction,the single twist being the same as in the three-ply yarn, and thetwo-ply twist being approximately twenty-eight turns in ten inches inthe opposite direction to the single twist. No bath treatment isrequired in the case of the two-ply yam since the twist is not as greatas in the harder twisted three-ply yarn. v

Although two and three ply combination is perhaps preferred, and is usedin this instance as ameans of explanation, other combinations of twistcan be used to produce similar results.

The two yarns are placed in the loom in ac-. cordance with the design ofthe carpet or rug to be produced, which, of course, is predeterminedjust as in the case of any pattern where different colors are used. Oneof the advantages of my invention is that the yarns which are used toproduce the long and short pile in the final fabric may be of the samekind and quality of fiber. Wool yarn is preferred, but the invention isnot limited thereto, and the yarns may be composed of the same ordifferent blends of staple length fibers-of a spinnable character. Aspreviously mentioned, the fabric is woven in the same manner as anytwo-tone or figured fabric, and it comes off the loom with a relativelyuniform pile height, just as in the case of ordinary pile carpet or rugfabrics. After weaving, the fabric is preferably sheared in the usualmanner to insure that all the pile tufts are of the same height, butthis shearing operation is not absolutely necessary, and largely dependsupon the quality desired. Ordinarily, the better quality fabrics aresheared after weaving. At this stage, the fabric is next given a wettreatment by washing the same in plain water, or with a suitablechemical solution, depending upon whether or not it is desired to imparta luster or sheen to the fabric. In the case of a chemical wash, thefabric is preferably washed in a chlorinated lime solution for a periodof approximately twenty minutes, and then in a formic acid solution foranother period of approximately twenty minutes, the solutions beingmaintained at a temperature of approximately ninety degrees Fahrenheit.Thereafter, the-fabric should be rinsed in plain water for about fiveminutes, and when the fabric has been dried, it will have a beautifulluster or sheen.

The wet treatment in either plain water or the chemical solutionsreferred to serves to partially release the twist; of the harder twistedthree-ply yarn, thereby causing the pile tufts formed by this set ofyarns to elongate and rise above the pile tufts formed by the other setof two-ply yarns, thereby creating high and low pile areas 4' and 4",according to the pattern woven on the loom, as illustrated, for example,in Figure 1 of the drawing. This difference in the height of the pile isquite distinct, and gives the embossed effect in the final fabric. Thewet treatment does not materially affect the lesser twisted two-plyyarns, but does shrink the backing threads which are ordinarily composedof cotton. This shrinkage of the backing threads aids in securelybinding the pile yarns to the backing fabric.

A further effect of the wetting treatment on the pile yarns is topartially spread or open up the pile tufts, with the result that thepile .surface becomes quite dense and is uniform throughout, aifordingan unusually high degree of coverage which materially contributes to thebeauty and long wearing qualities of the fabric. After the wettreatment, and when the fabric has been dried, it is again preferablysheared to give greater evenness to the high pile areas, but here again,the final shearing is a matter of choice, and depends upon the desiredquality and surface appearance of the final fabric. The yarn in the highpile areas assumes a state of lesser ply twist after the wet treatment,and is substantially the same in this respect as the yarn which formsthe low pile areas, just as if the fabric were originally made with thesame pile height over all. Of course, the bases or roots of the piletufts which form the high pile areas, will remain harder twisted thanthe bases or roots of the other pile tufts, due to the former beinginitially woven and bound in the backing fabric in a harder twistedstate. The twist releasing result of the wetting treatment is effectiveat least on the free ends of the tuft yarns, and substantially down tothe tuft bases or roots.

From the foregoing, it will be readily understood that an effectcompared to a two-tone effect can be created through the use of yarns ofthe same color in both the high and low pile areas. This is due to theshadows and highlights which result from the use of two pile heights.The amount of increase in the pile height which results from the wettreatment largely depends upon the relative twist of the diflerentyarns, and-of course, I am not limited to the use of only two differentpile heights, since more than two different pile heights may be obtainedthrough the employment of more than two sets of pile yarns, each havinga difierent amount of twist.

The embossed effect emphasizes pattern designs where different colorsare used, regardless of the form of the design, whether it begeometrical, floral, oriental, or otherwise. tion has a distinct styleappeal and is unusually serviceable, and does not readily loose itsdistinctiveness through wear or cleaning treatments, even where thecleaning treatment involves a washing operation. In this respect, myinvention is a marked advantage over pebbled or frieze fabrics.

The references herein to two and three ply yarns and to the specificdegrees of twist of the yams in single or plied form, are not to betaken as fixed, but rather merely as one practical example of theconstruction. In other words, the plied yarns may be composed of morethan two or three single yarns and the ply twist may be varied.more orless as desired, depending upon the quality and degree ofdifferentiation between the high and low'pile areas to be ultimatelyattained. It is important, however, that the twist of the harder twistedyarns should not be so great as to cause the pile ends to curl over ormat down when subjected to a wetting treatment, and it is equallyimportant that the twist be not permanently set prior to the wettingtreatment.

While the specific details have been herein shown and described, theinvention is not confined thereto, as changes and alterations may bemade without departing from the spirit thereof as defined by theappended claims.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new and desire tosecure by Letters Pat.- ent is- 1. The method of producing embossed orrelief designs in pile fabrics, which comprises weaving twisted pileyarns composed of staple length fibers and having different degrees oftwist, according to a predetermined pattern, to initially provide a pilesurface composed of tufts of substantially uniform height, andthereafter subjecting said pile yarns to a wetting treatment whereby topartially release the'twist of the harder twisted yarns so as to causethe pile tufts formed by these yarns to elongate and rise above the piletufts formed by the other lesser twisted yarns which are substantiallyunaffected by the wetting treatment.

2. The method of producing embossed or relief designs in pile fabrics,which comprises weaving a plurality of sets of multi-ply pile yarns, theyarns of each set having a different degree of twist, according to apredetermined pattern, to initially provide a pile surface composed oftufts of substantially uniform height, the component strands of each setof pile yarns being individually twisted in one direction and plied bytwisting lief designs .in

The construcin the opposite direction, and'the ply twist of one set ofpile yarns being substantially less than the ply twist ofthe other set,and thereafter sub- Jecting said pile yarns to a wetting treatmentwhereby to. partially release the twist of the harder twisted yarns soas to cause the pile tufts formed by these yarns to elongate and riseabove the pile tufts formed by the other lesser twisted yarns which aresubstantially unaffected by the wetting treatment.

3. The method of producing embossed or repile fabrics, which comprisesweaving a plurality of sets of pile yarns, the yarns of each set beingcomposed of staple length fibers and having a different degree of twist,according to a predetermined pattern, to initially provide a pilesurface composed of tufts of substantially uniform height, andthereafter sub- Jecting said pile yarns to a wetting treatment at atemperature of approximately ninety degrees Fahrenheit whereby topartially release the twist of the harder twisted yarns so as to causethe pile tufts formed by these yarns to elongate and rise above the piletufts formed by the other lesser twisted yarns which are substantiallyunaffected by the wetting treatment.

4. The method of producing embossed or relief designs in pile fabrics,which comprises mechanically plying a plurality of individually twistedpile yarns in a direction opposite to the single twist, mechanicallyplying a second set of pile yarns in the opposite direction to thesingle twist and in the same direction as but with a lesser twist thanthe ply twist of the first mentioned plied yarn, weaving said pliedyarns according to a predetermined design to initially provide a pilesurface composed of tufts of substantially uniform height, andthereafter subjecting said pile yarns to a wetting treatment whereby topartially release the twist of the harder twisted yarns soas to causethe pile tufts formed byv these yarnsto elongate and rise above the piletufts formed by the other lesser twisted yarns which are substantiallyunaffected by the wetting treatment.

5. The method of producing embossed or relief designs in pile fabrics,which comprises mechanically plying a plurality of individually twistedpile yarns in a direction opposite to the single twist, mechanicallyplying a second set of pile yarns in the opposite direction to thesingle twist and in the same direction as-but with a lesser twist thanthe ply twist of the first mentioned plied yarn, weaving said pliedyarns according to a predetermined design to initially provide a pilesurface composed of tufts of substantially uniform height shearing saidpile tufts to even the same, thereafter subjecting said pile yarns to awetting treatment whereby to partially release the twist of the hardertwisted yarns so as to cause the pile tufts formed by these yarns toelongate and rise above the pile tufts formed by the'other lessertwisted yarns which are substantially unaffected by'the wettingtreatment, drying the fabric, and subsequently shearing the pile tuftsforming the high pile areas to even the same.

6. The method of producing embossed or relief designs in pile fabrics,which comprises meyarns in the opposite direction to the single twistand in the same direction as but with a lesser twist than the ply twistof the first mentioned plied yarn, weaving said plied yarns according toa predetermined design to initially provide a pile surface composed oftufts of substantially uniform height, and thereafter subjecting saidpile yarns to aj'wetting treatment whereby to partially release thetwist of the harder twisted yarns so as to cause the pile tufts formedby these yarns to elongate and rise above the pile tufts formed by theother lesser twisted yarns which are substantially unaffected by thewetting treatment.

7. The method of producing embossed or relief designs in pile fabrics,which comprises weaving a plurality of sets of pile yarns, the yarns ofeachset being composed of staple length fibers and having a differentdegree of twist, according to a predetermined pattern to initiallyprovide a pile surface composed of tufts of substantially uniformheight, and thereafter subjecting said pile yarns to a wetting treatmentin solutions of chlorinated lime and formic acid, whereby to partiallyrelease the twist of the harder twisted yarns so as to cause the piletufts formed by these yarns to elongate and rise above the pile tuftsformed by the other lesser twisted yarns which are substantiallyunaffected by the wetting treatment.

8. The method ofproducing embossed or relief designs in pile fabrics;which comprises weaving a plurality of sets of .pile yarns, the yarns ofeach set having a. difl'erent degree of twist, and being composed ofstaple length fibers, to form a surface which is composed of pile tuftsinitially having substantially uniform height, and thereafter partiallyreleasing the twist of said harder twisted pile yarns in such-mannerthat the tufts formed thereby elongate and thereby form higher pileareas according to a predetermined design, which have distinct contrastwith the lower pile areas :composed of the other tufts.

. 9. A pile fabric the surface -of.w hich consists pile tufts beingharder twisted than the bases of the lower pile tufts.

10. A pile fabric consisting of twisted pile yarns composed of staplelength fibers and having the formation of substantially U-shaped piletufts,

the bases of which are bound in between yarns of a backing fabric, thepile tufts being of different heights. according to a predetermineddesign, and the bases of the higher pile tufts being harder twisted thanthe bases of the lowerpile tufts.

11. A pile fabric as claimed in claim 9, wherein certain of the piletufts are composed of a greater number of pile yarns plied together thanthe other pile tufts.

12. A pile fabric as claimed in claim 9, wherein the higher pile tuftsare composed of a greater number of pile yarns plied together than theother pile tufts.

13. A pile fabric consisting of a plurality of sets of twisted pileyarns composed of staple length fibers and forming substantiallyU-shaped pile tufts having their bases bound between the yarns of abacking fabric, the pile tufts being of diflerent heights and arrangedin a predetermined design, the bases of the higher pile tufts formed byone set of pile yarns being harder twisted than the bases of the otherpile tufts, and at least the free ends of the pile tufts forming thepile surface being substantially spread open and completely concealingthe backing fabric.

14. A pile fabric, the pile surface of which is composed of twisted pileyarns composed of staple length fibers and forming tufts of differentheights arranged in a predetermined design, the respective pile areasformed by the relatively high and low pile tufts being of substantiallyuniform density, and the bases 01 the higher pile tufts being hardertwisted than the bases of the lower pile tufts.

HAROLD H. FONDA.

